Archive | Life Lessons

Before the sun comes up, the 'oily' water hints at the sunrise to come with lavenders and periwinkles blending the sea with the sky.

Fighting the Tide

“You can sit on di beach, but you can’t stop di tide.” So said a thoughtful Caribbean man to Josh when he was delivering boats in the islands. This phrase came back to Josh as we pushed further north into the Sea of Cortez and discovered what happens when a sailboat meets the water from […]

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The roofs and colorful clapboard in the center of Santa Rosalía.

The Essence We Cannot See

On the surface, Santa Rosalía is a rundown mining town with no pretty shoreline and no quaint fish shacks. Why did Josh and I love it so much? Santa Rosalía is a brilliantly incongruous place. The red roofs and clapboard of French architecture give way to steep desert mesas which give way to burgundy tailings […]

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Needless to say, I do not have any photos of my meltdown, only photos of my recovery.

Wind and Loathing in Loreto

In Moab, I worked with a fantastic bike guide, Scott Escott, who shared these wise words: “I hate the wind because it blows the personal space away from my FACE.” At this moment, amid copious tears, I hate the wind. We have just anchored at Isla Carmen after five and a half hours of tacking […]

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Some of the boys of Agua Verde.

The Future of Agua Verde

A close friend described Agua Verde as her favorite place on the Baja coast, and she infused it with a sense of magic and belonging for me before I even arrive. As we sail into the bay, dodging a hundred-plus foot pinnacle sticking out of the sea, we find the calmest water we have seen. […]

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Oleada at Isla San Francisco, the Sierra de la Giganta in the background.

It’s A Small Sea After All

“Do you think they see us?” I ask Josh. It’s past twilight, and a panga with no lights veers from its course and heads straight for our dinghy. It kicks up a wake that reflects the wisps of pink lingering in the sky. At first I change my course and start to row away, then […]

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One of the houses on the shore.

How People Live On a Rock in the Sea

What do you do to prepare for a hurricane if your house is ten feet from the sea? This is the question on my mind as Josh and I row our dinghy to the shores of Isla Pardito, the smallest inhabited island I have ever seen. It is less than two hundred meters wide, and […]

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Getting after the growth.

More Shade, More Speed

Our hull grew a fur coat for summer. Here’s a short video I made for ICWA, the Institute of Current World Affairs, to explain what we do when this happens. Combine not enough sailing with lots of warm, stagnant marina water, and you get not only a restless boat couple, but a truly furry hull. […]

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Women at the wheel. Laura is obviously not enjoying herself.

Sailing Anyone?

“No no, I’m okay,” Lindsay says, nearly mustering a smile. For her first sail, we have carted Lindsay in bad weather to a remote island in Mexico. I’m searching her face for signs that she might kill me. It’s 6am and we just spent the night in a beautiful cove on Isla Espiritu Santo—bobbing and […]

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Syrinx sails.

A Boat (Owner’s) Life

The saying goes that the two best days of a boat owner’s life are the day of purchase and the day it’s sold. Over the past nine months, Josh’s incredible wooden cutter, Syrinx, sat patiently in the Berkeley marina while Josh and I sailed Far to Mexico and lived aboard in warmer waters. Before I […]

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A rainbow over my shoulder sends us into the night on our sail away from San Juanico, the best wave I have ever surfed.

The End of the Beginning – What I’ve Learned

We made it to La Paz. Three months ago. I’m a little behind on the blog. So I shall catch you up with the most painful/glorious moments. As soon as darkness fell on our sail out of San Juanico, the autopilot broke. The autopilot allows us to steer the boat electronically by setting a heading, […]

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