Archive | Mexico

Needless to say, I do not have any photos of my meltdown, only photos of my recovery.

Wind and Loathing in Loreto

In Moab, I worked with a fantastic bike guide, Scott Escott, who shared these wise words: “I hate the wind because it blows the personal space away from my FACE.” At this moment, amid copious tears, I hate the wind. We have just anchored at Isla Carmen after five and a half hours of tacking […]

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Scraping the old name off the sides took four hours--it had been an excellent paint job done in the 1990s.

What’s In A Name? : How We Finally Renamed Our Sailboat

There is endless lore around the renaming of boats. Every boater has an opinion and (often unsolicited) words of advice on boat names, and whether to rename at all. When I mentioned that I planned to change the name, many people strongly recommended that I avoid the dark sea magic and Neptune’s potential wrath altogether and […]

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A pair in the morning light.

Video: Pilot Whales!

While sailing from Los Gatos to Agua Verde, a small pod of pilot whales joined us. Here’s the video, complete with geeky narration so you can learn a little bit about these graceful cetaceans:   Pilot whales are more closely related to dolphins than whales, and they are a cousin to killer whales. They are […]

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Some of the boys of Agua Verde.

The Future of Agua Verde

A close friend described Agua Verde as her favorite place on the Baja coast, and she infused it with a sense of magic and belonging for me before I even arrive. As we sail into the bay, dodging a hundred-plus foot pinnacle sticking out of the sea, we find the calmest water we have seen. […]

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A view up the canyon.

The Ghosts of Fisheries Past

We’re tired. The wind has been unpredictably swirling around at night, sometimes bringing a 2am thunderstorm to sit on top of us for an hour–which also means Uly sits on top of us for an hour. In these storms, Josh keeps and eye on the GPS to watch if the anchor drags, I just worry […]

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Oleada at Isla San Francisco, the Sierra de la Giganta in the background.

It’s A Small Sea After All

“Do you think they see us?” I ask Josh. It’s past twilight, and a panga with no lights veers from its course and heads straight for our dinghy. It kicks up a wake that reflects the wisps of pink lingering in the sky. At first I change my course and start to row away, then […]

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A typical Tuesday evening on the malecón.

Crime and Climate

News coverage of Mexico in the US usually revolves around two topics: drugs and violence. For people who have never visited Mexico, I imagine it sounds like a terrifying place, with corruption and human rights abuses ever encroaching on innocent people. I have been visiting Mexico since I first drove across the border with my […]

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Getting after the growth.

More Shade, More Speed

Our hull grew a fur coat for summer. Here’s a short video I made for ICWA, the Institute of Current World Affairs, to explain what we do when this happens. Combine not enough sailing with lots of warm, stagnant marina water, and you get not only a restless boat couple, but a truly furry hull. […]

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Women at the wheel. Laura is obviously not enjoying herself.

Sailing Anyone?

“No no, I’m okay,” Lindsay says, nearly mustering a smile. For her first sail, we have carted Lindsay in bad weather to a remote island in Mexico. I’m searching her face for signs that she might kill me. It’s 6am and we just spent the night in a beautiful cove on Isla Espiritu Santo—bobbing and […]

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A rainbow over my shoulder sends us into the night on our sail away from San Juanico, the best wave I have ever surfed.

The End of the Beginning – What I’ve Learned

We made it to La Paz. Three months ago. I’m a little behind on the blog. So I shall catch you up with the most painful/glorious moments. As soon as darkness fell on our sail out of San Juanico, the autopilot broke. The autopilot allows us to steer the boat electronically by setting a heading, […]

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