Archive | Mexico

Off the blue dock and into blue sea.

North to South, Three to Two

Despite my relaxed pleasure in conversation with Eduardo at the north end of Cedros Island, when Chris and I stepped out of the dinghy onto Cedros Island’s only town, I felt distinctly and awkwardly…female. We scrambled up the slimy, barnacled rocks under shacks on the short cliffs at shore and made our way into the […]

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A little breather with the sea dawg after the morning howler.

Delight in Discomfort

“We’re not in any trouble. We’re just uncomfortable.” Josh utters these words at 12am. We are anchored at Abreojos, a name meaning “Open Your Eyes!” and just now striking me as, perhaps, a warning unrelated to the underwater hazards. It’s a clear night, and the little bit of shelter that this low, dusty corner of […]

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A fisherman sets a homemade rebar anchor.

What You Can Learn From A Man With A Fridge In His Panga

With dolphin escorts off the bow, we departed midday from San Quintín for an overnight sail to Cedros Island. Once in open water we were able to turn off the engine and sail into the blissful quiet. Off the starboard beam, a whale breached. (I obviously did not take this magnificent photo below. I will […]

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Pink calm and a waning moon bring in the light of say on the way to San Quintín.

A First Night at Sea

Day 5 – Into the Ocean Night After two sleepless nights in Ensenada, we had another intentional all-nighter in front of us: the passage to Bahia San Quintin. We set out in the early afternoon, slipped out of the harbor, and headed south. My first night on the open ocean (under control of the boat, […]

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Checking each other out at the bow.

Sleepless En’Senada

Day 1 Instead of our first leg to Ensenada being my first overnight at sea (for which I was rather nervous,) we departed more casually in the afternoon for the Coronado Islands, just south of the border and 15 miles offshore. Far gleefully sped out of the United States at nearly eight knots under sail, […]

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Boats in the wake of Hurricane Odile, September 2014. The was the most powerful storm to hit the Baja peninsula in 50 years.

How to Ask for Help: the Fulbright Research Files

First, a little background about just what it is that I am doing as a Fulbright researcher in Baja California. I study the impacts of climate change on the coasts of Latin America from both a scientific and human perspective. Stories and personal experiences of living on the coast are not used by the scientific […]

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Dodger success!

Surf Lessons from the Atmospheric River

A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find that after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. ~John Steinbeck I love making plans. I create a vision in my head and promptly fall in love. […]

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As Dolly says, If you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain. The view from our casa in La Paz.

An American in La Paz

Or, Being on the Other Side of the Immigration Process In my first month in Baja, I have been treated overwhelming well. Due in large part to our gracious (and brilliant, energetic, and super fun) host, Laura, we have been introduced to an amazing group of people working in conservation in La Paz and throughout […]

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Kekito.

Uh, hey guys? It’s HOT.

Sea dawg reporting to you from what appears to be our new home in La Paz, Mexico. And I would like to start by saying that it’s HOT here in Mexico. The nice winter coat I was working on in Berkeley? NOT useful here. We spent five whole days in the truck to get here, […]

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Pan, pan, y más pan...

The Way to Peace

Day 3 We were quiet as we drove away from damaged San Ignacio. We didn’t know what we would see along the road as we crossed the canyons and mountains to our first view of the Sea of Cortez. Which was stunning. From the top of the road in the coastal desert mountains, the sapphire […]

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