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Paradise Divided

Paradise Divided

We hear the buzz of the motor closing in. Both Josh and I stand up instinctively, peering into the inky blackness for the invisible boat. We’ve just finished eating at our little teak table in the cockpit, enjoying the dark ensconce of the warm, humid evening. I see only reflected yellow lights from town. The […]

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Honduras and the Hurricane

Under full sail, we enter the only bay in the world shared by three countries. It’s first light, and a stiff breeze disperses the overnight storms. A thunderstorm guarded the mouth of the bay last night, flashing and stomping but breaking up with the sunrise wind. When I take the helm and Josh goes below […]

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The Salty Heart

How to describe what we do? For the past few weeks, I’ve tackled that question with this video we produced for the Institute of Current World Affairs–that ended up showing the heart of our research adventure.     Extra special thanks to Jon on SV Prism for all of his time, footage, skills, and teaching […]

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A big fish--the biggest! The gentle whaleshark. Photo from

Amazing Grace in Bahía Concepción

“WHAT’S. HAPPENING.” Josh says this not so much as a question, but a statement of semi-baffled irritation. And for good reason. Blasting from shore at 8am at Playa El Burro is Amazing Grace—on bagpipes. BAGPIPES. The shore of this beach is lined with ‘temporary’ cabins and RV shelters, their two-story particle board exteriors all sandwiched […]

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Dinner on the deck at the mouth of Bahia San Quintín and Molino Viejo.

Going South

“Gasolina??” the border inspector repeated incredulously. “Sí,” I sighed. I had just explained that our friends in La Paz said they had heard that the road was open, but to bring extra water and gas. Josh, Uly and I waited in the hot shade 100 meters from the US border in Tecate, México, while two […]

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